Celtnet Hannah Glasse Recipes Frontispiece and Contents from 'The Art of Cookery'

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THE

ART of COOKERY

Made

PLAIN and EASY;

Which far exceeds any Thing of the Kind yet publiſhed.
CONTAINING,

How to Roaſt and boil to Perfection every Thing neceſſary to be ſent up to table. Of Made-diſhes. How expensive a French Cook's Sauce is. To make a Number of pretty little Diſhes for a Supper or Side-diſh, and little Corner-diſhes for a great Table. To dress Fiſh. Of Soops and Broths. Of Puddings. Of Pies. For a Lent Dinner ; a Number of good Diſhes, which you may make uſe of at any other time. Directions to prepare proper Food for the Sick. For Captains of Ships ; how to make all uſeful Things for a Voyage ; and ſetting out a Table on board a Ship.

Of Hogs Puddings, Sauſages &c. To pot and make Hams, &c. Of Pickling. Of making Cakes, &c. Of Cheeſe-cakes, Creams, Jellies, Whip-Syllabubs, &c. Of made Wines, Brewing, French Bread, Muffins, &c. Jarring Cherries and Preſerves, &c. To make Anchovies, Vermicella, Catchup, Vinegar, and to keep Artichokes, French Beans, &c. Of Diſtilling. How to market ; the Seaſon of the Year for Butchers Meat, Poultry, Fiſh, Herbs, Roots, and Fruit. A certain Cure for the Bite of a Mad Dog. By Dr. Mead. A Receipt to keep clear from Buggs.

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BY A LADY

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LONDON

Printed for the AUTHOR ; and ſold at Mrs Aſhburn's, a China-Shop, the
Corner of Fleet-Ditch. MDCCXLVII.

[ Price 3s.6 ſtitch'd, and 5s, bound.]

To The

READER

I believe I have attempted a branch of Cookery, which nobody has yet thought worth their while to write upon : but as I have both ſeen, and found, by experience, that the generality of ſservants are greatly wanting in that point, therefore I have taken upon me to inſtruct them in the beſs manner I am capable ; and, I dare ſay, that every ſervant who can but read will be capable of making a tolerably good cook, and thoſe who have the leaſt motion of Cookery cannot miſs of being very good ones.

     If I have not wrote in the high polite ſtyle, I hope that I ſhall be forgiven ; for my intention is to inſtruct the lower ſort, and therefore muſt treat them in their own way. For example : when I bid them lard a fowl, If I ſhould bid them lard with large lardoons, they would not kow what I meant ; but when I ſsy they muſt lard with little pieces of bacon, they know what I mean. So, in many other things in Cookery, the great cooks have ſuch a high way of expreſſing

ii	To the READER.

themſseves, that the poor girls are at a loſs to know what they mean : and in all Receipt Books yet printed, there are ſuch an odd jumble of things as would quite ſpoil a good diſh ; and indeed ſome things ſo extravagant, that it would be almoſt a ſhame to make uſe of them, when the diſh can be made full as good, or better, without them. For example : when you entertain ten or twelve people, you ſhall uſe for a cullis, a leg of veal and a ham ; which, with the other ingredients, makes it very expenſive, and all this only to mix with other ſauce. And again, the eſſence of ham for ſauce to one diſh ; when I will prove it, for about three ſhillings I will make as rich and high a ſauce as all that will be, when done. For example:

     Take a large deep ſtew-pan, half a pound of bacon, ſat and lean together, cut the fat and lay it over the bottom of the pan ; then take a pound of veal, cut it into thin ſlices, beat it well with the back of a knife, lay it all over the bacon ; then have ſix-penny worth of the coarſe lean part of the beef cut thin and well beat, lay a layer of it all over, with ſome carrot, then the lean of the bacon cut thin and laid over that : then cut two onions and ſtrew over, a bundle of ſweet-herbs, four or five blades of mace, ſix or ſeven cloves, a ſpoonful of whole pepper, black and white together, half a nutmeg beat, a pigeon beat all to pieces, lay that all over, half an ounce of truffles

To the READER.

iii

and morels, then the reſt of your beef, a good cruſt of bread toaſted very brown and dry on both ſides : you may add an old cock beat to pieces ; cover it cloſe, and let it ſtand over a ſlow fire two or three minutes, then pour on boiling water enough to fill the pan, and cover it cloſe, and let it ſtew till it is as rich as you would have it, and then ſtrain off all that ſauce. Put all your ingredients together again, fill the pan with boiling water, put in a freſh onion, a blade of mace, and a piece of carrot ; cover it cloſe, and let it ſtew till it is as ſtrong as you want it. This will be full as good as the eſſence of ham for all ſorts of fowls, or indeed moſt made-diſhes, mixed with a glaſs of wine, and two or three ſpoonfuls of catchup. When your firſt gravy is cool, ſkim off all the fat, and keep it for uſe.— —This falls far ſhort of the expence of a leg of veal and ham, and anſwers every purpoſe you want.
[For the modern Redaction see: Rich Sauce.]

     If you go to market, the ingredients will not come to above half a crown, or for about eighteen-pence you may make as much good gravy as will ſerve twenty people.

     Take twelve penny-worth of coarſe lean beef, which will be ſix or ſeven pounds, cut it all to pieces, flour it well, take a quarter of a pound of good butter, put it into a little pot or large deep ſtew-pan, and put in your beef : keep ſtirring it, and when it begins to look a little brown, pour

iv	To the READER.

in a pint of boiling water ; ſtir it all together, put in a large onion, a bundle of ſweet herbs, two or three blades of mace, five or ſix cloves, a ſpoonful of whole pepper, a cruſt of bread toaſted, and a piece of carrot ; then pour in four or five quarts of water, ſtir all together, cover cloſe, and let it ſtew till it is as rich as you would have it ; when enough, ſtrain it off, mix it with two or three ſpoonfuls of catchup, and half a pint of white wine ; then put all the ingredients together again, and put in two quarts of boiling water, cover it cloſe, and let it boil till there is about a pint ; ſtrain it off well, add it to the firſt, and give it a boil together. This will make a great deal of rich good gravy.

     You may leave out the wine, according to what uſe you want it for ; ſo that really one might have a genteel entertainment, for the price the ſauce of one diſh comes to : but if gentlemen will have French cooks, they muſt pay for French tricks.
[For the modern Redaction see: Good Gravy.]

     A Frenchman in his own country will dreſs a fine dinner of twenty diſhes, and all genteel and pretty, for the expence he will put an Engliſh lord to for dreſſing one diſh. But then there is the little petty profit. I have heard of a cook that uſed ſix pounds of butter to fry twelve eggs ; when every body knows (that underſtands cooking) that half a pound is full enough, or more than need be uſed : but then it

To the READER.

v

would not be French. So much is the blind folly of this age, that they would rather be impoſed on by a French booby, than give encouragement to a good English cook !

     I doubt I ſhall not gain the eſteem of thoſe gentlemen ; however, let that be as it will, it little concerns me ; but ſhould I be ſo happy as to gain the good opinion of my own ſex, I deſire no more ; that will be a full recompence for all my trouble ; and I only beg the favour of every lady to read my Book throughout before they cenſure me, and then I flatter myſelf I ſhall have their approbation.

     I ſhall not take upon me to meddle in the phyſical way farther than two receipts, which will be of uſe to the public in general : one is for the bite of a mad dog : and the other, if a man would be near where the plague is, he ſhall be in no danger ; which, if made uſe of, would be found of very great ſervice to thoſe who go abroad.

     Nor ſhall I take upon me to driect a lady in the œconomy of her family ; for every miſtreſs does, or at leaſt ought to know, what is moſt proper to be done there ; therefore I ſhall not fill my Book with a deal of nonſenſe of that kind, which I am very well aſſured none will have regard to.

     I have indeed given ſome of my diſhes French

vi	To the READER.

names to diſtinguish them, becauſe they are known by thoſe names : and where there is great variety of diſhes and a large table to cover, ſo there muſt be variety of names for them ; and it matters not whther they be called by a French, Dutch, or Engliſh name, ſo they are good, and done with as little expence as the diſh will allow of.

     I ſhall ſay no more, only hope my Book will anſwer the ends I intend it for ; which is to imporve the ſervants, and ſave the ladies a great deal of trouble.